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The sun was pretty low in the sky when I reached Playa Grande. I quickly learned that this preserve is only the beach and the waters extending out about 20 kilometers. This is one of the many Costa Rican beaches used by sea turtles to lay their eggs. The beach was clean but footprints in the sand indicated that it had lots of human activity earlier in the day. A quick look around told me that this was a surfers' beach since everyone in the water was on a board. |
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I took a stroll along the beach and then turned inland on a trail. It took me through a vacant lot for sale and then out onto a street. Coming towards me were four surfers carrying their boards. They were being followed by an older guy. As soon as he saw me he introduced himself as Yuri and asked me to come to his small hotel and have a drink with him. I had noticed the quart-sized box of wine he was carrying with him and recognized him as looking for a drinking buddy. |
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I had no other plans and since he was only charging $10 per night, I thought, "What the heck, this should be interesting." As it got dark, I learned of Yuri's building the ten-room hotel from scratch and of his discontent with being in Playa Grande. He was fed up with the ups and downs of tourism, and was especially tired of surf bums. We found much in common besides our age. |
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With things so slow, no restaurants in the immediate area were serving on this Sunday evening. So, we headed north about five miles to Playa Flamingo where there was a busy nightclub and casino. There we ate, people watched and talked. I learned that Yuri had come from Vancouver but I knew his accent was not Canadian. When questioned about it, Yuri then told me of his leaving the USSR about 10 years before perestroika. He still has family there but has absolutely no interest in returning.
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We were back at the hotel about 11:00 and went right to bed. Both being early risers, we had a couple of cups of coffee together before I packed up to continue my journey south on the Nicoya Peninsula.
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In studying the map, I saw that another national park was not too far off my route. Going there would also open the possibility of taking a ferry across the estuary to the mainland should I choose to do so in the next couple hours. As I headed toward Nicoya, I came across a timber mill. Here many acres were covered with huge logs, some about 48" in diameter and 40' long. It saddens me when I see once majestic trees in this state. |
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I was going to Barra Honda, a small park known for its limestone caves. In the community of Quebrada Honda, just outside the gate, this group of school children and many others from the community were involved in a planting project. |
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Barra Honda is a dry tropical forest similar to that farther north in the province of Guanacaste. An extensive cave system led to the area's preservation. Nineteen caves have been explored—estimated as only half of the system. One of these is open to the public. |
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There were facilities for a few researchers here—much smaller operations than in Santa Rosa. A ranger filled me in on the visitor opportunities in the park. Not prepared for spelunking, I decided I would take a hike on one of the many trails, with camera in hand, of course.
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I saw a fair amount of insect activity along the way. A white fungus growing around the edges of a discarded board near the little footbridge caught my attention. On closer inspection, I found a group of flies feeding and ovipositing on the underside of one of the caps. The same fungus was also growing on the bridge. A pleasing fungus beetle and her young offspring were enjoying the fungus as well. |
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Caterpillars of many species were abundant. One mimicked bird droppings as a defense. Others were cryptic or brightly colored. |
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I even saw a large skipper larva wandering around on a plant. Whether it was relocating, having outgrown its tent, or was looking for a place to pupate I couldn't say. |
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I also saw a number of green lynx spiders (Puecetia). |
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Next page |
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